Grand Island Console Table

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I have been wanting to build a fun and fancy console table, but it had to be a fairly narrow design. Then I found the perfect turned legs and it may have been destiny! The drawers are faux because the depth is narrow, so they wouldn’t hold much anyway. One of the greatest parts of DIY’ing is that you can totally customize your furniture for the space. I made customizing this table really easy. The cut list is a spreadsheet, download it and put in your desired dimensions and it will automatically update for you!

A quick video of the console table build:

How to Build a Custom Grand Island Console Table

This post contains affiliate links noted by *.

This plan is customizable, so the materials list will change according to the desired dimension of your console table. This example material list is what I used for the console table being 68″ long and 11 1/4″ deep.

Material

4 – 3 1/2″ Grand Island Legs from Osborne Wood Products in Knotty Pine
2 – 1″ x 12″ x 6′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 11 1/4″)
1 – 1″ x 10″ x 6′ board (actual 3/4″ x 9 1/4″)
2 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 3 1/2-3 1/4″) I usually buy extra 1×4’s to rip into 2 and make 1×2’s. The selection of 1×2’s at my store is usually poor, plus is saves money.
5 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 1 1/2″) (see note above)
1 sheet 5 mm (about 1/4″) underlayment plywood
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ brad nails
3/4″ brad nails
wood glue
sandpaper
wood filler
paint
- for this project I used Country Chic Paint: Chocolate Tart, Fresh Mustard and Belt Buckle metallic cream
top coat (optional)
6 – drawer knobs*
- Approximate cost of building materials is $210.

Cut List

To customize the dimensions of the console table, download the spreadsheet and change the green fields (overall length, height depth and number of drawer fronts). The spreadsheet will automatically change the cut list numbers accordingly. Cut list speadsheet: Grand Island Leg custom Console Table See step 3 for rail and slat options.

Example cut diagram (for 68″ table).

Step 1

Cut the legs to length. Measure from the top of the legs down, mark and cut the leg to component A length.

Take 2 of the component G slats and mark the following measurements, then cut out (jig saw) to notch for the legs.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material, 2 that will attach to the bottom sides and one near each corner. Note: put it near the corner to make it easier to secure the screw when the legs are in place.

Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach a bottom side to and end slat.

Drill pocket holes in the top side pieces. Drill a couple in the top to secure the top later. Drill about 4 down one side, and on the opposite side drill another 3-4 (this will be on the side that shows). When the sides are being installed between the legs, there won’t be enough room to put your drill. I filled the outside pocket holes with filler and they don’t show.

On the legs mark in 1/4″ from one side (top and bottom blocks). Mark 29″ from the leg top for the bottom side piece to attach.

Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the top side and bottom side to a leg.

Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ screws to attach the sides to the other leg.

Repeat for other leg set.

Step 2

Cut the top, front and drawer front pieces. If you want a routed edge on these pieces, now is a good time to route them.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material on the back of the front piece, about 4 holes on each end to attach the legs and some up top.

Space out the drawer fronts onto the front piece. The drawer fronts will be 1 1/4″ from each side of the front piece and 1″ gap between each drawer front. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails to secure the drawer fronts in place. Then I flipped the front over and added 1 1/4″ screws from the back for a little extra security. If you know what knobs/pulls you plan on using, you can drill the holes for them now, or wait until later.

Step 3

To attach the slats on the bottom, I decided to cut a rabbet (groove) in the rail for the slats to sit on, then nail them in place. If you’d rather not cut a rabbet, leave the rails whole and you can attach the slats with pocket holes/screws (see note on cut list for this option).

I cut the rabbet joint as shown on the table saw making 2 passes. Drill a pocket hole for 3/4″ material in each end of the rails.

On the legs mark in 1/4″ from one side (top and bottom blocks). Mark 29″ from the leg top for the rail pieces to attach. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ screws to attach the front and front rail onto the front legs.

Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material on the ends of the component L supports. Mark 11 1/8″ from the leg top. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ screws to attach the L supports and back rail onto the legs.

Place the top onto the table. The back of the top piece will be flush with the back of the legs and the sides will overhang about 1/2″. Use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the top onto the table.

On the back of the front piece and top sides, mark 1/4″ from the bottom. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails to attach the L support and M side supports in place.

Step 4

On the slats, I routed a very small round over on the edges. You can easily do this with a sander. Apply wood glue to the rabbet and place the slats along the rail, spacing every 1/4″. I cut a scrap piece of wood 1/4″ wide and used it as my spacer. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails to secure the slats.

Mark the bottom piece to notch for the legs. A jig saw is an easy way to make the notches. Secure the bottom piece with 3/4″-1 1/4″ brad nails.

Before attaching the back, you’ll want to install the knobs/pulls (this may be after painting/finish). Attach the back with 3/4″-1 1/4″ brad nails.

I love the shape of the console legs, those grand island legs are perfect.

Step 5

Fill any holes, cracks or blemishes with wood filler and let dry.

Sand the table and wood filler smooth. I usually finish with 120 grit sandpaper. For this table I was able to try out Country Chic paint. I wanted to do a bright cheery color, so I choose yellow with a little brown peaking through after distressing. The first coat of paint is chocolate tart, it went onto the raw wood really well. I let the brown dry for a day.

The next layer is fresh mustard and it is true to it’s name. The paint brushed on very smoothly, and didn’t leave brush strokes. I definitely needed 2 coats to adequately cover the brown. After the yellow was dry, I distressed the paint and where I wanted additional brown (like in the corners) I used the belt buckle metallic cream. To protect the table from little kid finger prints 🙂 I applied a layer of water based polyurethane.

I was a little skeptical about the knobs on Amazon*, because they were pretty cheap as far as knobs go, but they are great.

You can see where I put the metallic cream in the crevasses, it gives a nice shimmer.

Download free plans