Farmhouse Style Round Pedestal Table

We are really casual around this house and sadly have been eating at the counter for the last few years. {hangs head in shame}  With the new baby we have 5 in the family and only room for 4 counter stools. I decided I better get to it and make a table that will fit us all and then we can eat like civilized people. 🙂 I spotted the RH Bastide round table and fell in love with the curvy detail and used that as the inspiration for my table.  I changed the look a bit and added some ‘chunk’ on the base.  This DIY French farmhouse style pedestal table is 48″ round and 30″ tall and built from simple lumber from Home Depot (2×8’s, 2×6’s, 2×4’s etc).

I love how the base turned out.

The top turned out pretty cool too. I tried a little faux finishing with stain to get the reclaimed wood look using new wood.  I went with a round top, but you really could do an octagon or even square if you want to.

 

This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.

How to Build a French Farmhouse Style Round Pedestal Table

Materials

• 4 – 2″ x 8″ x 96″ boards
• 2 – 2″ x 6″ x 96″ boards
• 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 96″ boards
• 1 – 1″ x 6″ x 72″ board (only about 19″ needed)
• 1 – 4″ x 4″ x 96″ post (only need 15 3/4″ of the post needed, I used a left over piece from my Christmas candy canes)
• 2 1/2″ wood screws
• 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 2″ brad nails
• 1 1/4″ brad nails
• wood glue
• sandpaper
• wood filler (I used Dap this time, but Elmers and Minwax work well too.)
• 4 – 1″ decorative nails
• stain
• paint
• vaseline – optional

Cut List

• From the 2×8’s
  • 5 – 1 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ x 48″
  • 2 – 1 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ x 34″ with 45 deg miter on one end
  • 4 – 1 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ x 15 3/4″
• From the 2×6’s
  • 2 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 24″ (see base long board special cuts)
  • 2 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 25″ (see base long board special cuts)
  • 4 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 9 1/4″ (see base short board special cuts)
  • 4 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 9 3/4″ (see base short board special cuts)
• From the 2×4’s
  • 4 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 21 1/4″ (see base long board special cuts)
  • 8 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 8 7/8″ (see base short board special cuts)
• From the 1×6
  • 4 – 3/4″ x  5 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ with 45 deg bevel on one end (see feet special cuts)
• From the 4×4
  • 1 – 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 15 3/4″

Note: you may want to wait to cut the base short boards until Step 4 and cut to fit.

Cut Diagram

Special cuts

To create the detail on the base, some of the boards are cut on 30 deg on the ends.

I really wanted a round-over look on my base pieces, but didn’t want to buy a large round-over router bit. Instead of bevel cuts on the base pieces, I decided to use my belt sander to round over the corner.

Note: Before I made my cuts I trimmed the edges of the boards on the table saw so I’d have a straight edge to work from. You don’t have to do this, but if you do then you’ll need to cut the base short boards to fit because they’ll need to be slightly longer.

Assemble the Pedestal Base

Step 1

Print bracket template round-table-bracket-template.  Line up the pattern and tape together.  Cut out the pattern and trace onto the 4 – 2×8 by 15 3/4″ boards.  Use a band saw, jig saw (with a good blade), or scroll saw to cut out the brackets.  I used a band saw.  Sand the brackets smooth as needed.

Step 2

Mark the center-lines of the 15 3/4″ 4×4 ends and the bracket ends.  Center bracket on the 4×4 and use wood glue and 2″ brad nails to secure the bracket to post.

Repeat for each bracket.

Step 3

*Take time to get theses first base long boards centered, it will help the rest of the base go together smoothly.

Apply wood glue along the top of the brackets.  Mark the centerlines of the 2×4 – 21 1/4″ base long boards with beveled ends. Line up the centerline of the long board with the bracket centerlines, and center it along the brackets going the other direction. Use a countersink drill bit and drill holes, one in the center and one in each bracket. Use 2 1/2″ wood screws to secure the base long board.

Repeat for the long board on the opposite side of the brackets.

Step 4

Apply wood glue along the top of the brackets.  Mark the centerlines of the 2×4 – 8 7/8″ base short boards with beveled ends. Line up the centerline of the short boards with the long board centerlines, and center them along the brackets. Use a countersink drill bit and 2 drill holes in each short board, use 2 1/2″ wood screws to secure the base short boards.

Repeat for the short boards on the opposite side of the brackets.

Step 5

For strength, each layer of the base will rotate the direction of the long board.  So the new layer of long board will screw into previously installed short boards.

Repeat the process of steps 3 and 4. Apply wood glue along the top of the base layer 1.  Mark the centerlines of the 2×4 – 21 1/4″ base long boards and 2×4 – 8 7/8″ base short boards with straight ends. Line up layer 2 long board on layer 1 short boards.  Drill countersink holes in 3 places and secure with 2 1/2″ wood screws.

Line up the centerline of the short boards with the long board centerlines, and line up with layer 1 boards. Drill 2 countersink holes in each short board, use 2 1/2″ wood screws to secure the base short boards.

Repeat for the layer 2 base boards on the opposite side.

Step 6

Mark the centerline of the layer 2 long board.  Apply wood glue along the top of the base layer 2.  Mark the centerlines of the 2×6 – 24″ base long boards with beveled ends. Line up the centerline of the layer 3 long board with the layer 2 long board and center it on the short boards. Drill countersink holes in 3 places and secure with 2 1/2″ wood screws.

Repeat for the 25″ long board on the opposite side.

 

Apply wood glue along the top of base layer 2.  Mark the centerlines of the 2×6 – 9 1/4″ base short boards with beveled ends. Line up the centerline of the short boards with the long board centerlines. Use a countersink drill bit and 2 drill holes in each short board, use 2 1/2″ wood screws to secure the base short boards.

Repeat for the 9 3/4″ short boards on the opposite side.

Step 7

Apply wood glue along the top of the base layer 3.  Mark the centerlines of the 2×6 – 24″ base long boards and 2×6 – 9 1/4″ base short boards with straight ends. Line up layer 4 long board on layer 3 short boards.  Drill countersink holes in 3 places and secure with 2 1/2″ wood screws.

Line up the centerline of the short boards with the long board centerlines, and line up with layer 3 boards. Drill 2 countersink holes in each short board, use 2 1/2″ wood screws to secure the base short boards.

Repeat for the 25″ and 9 3/4″ base boards on the opposite side.

Place the base so the 25″ boards are up.  Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails to secure a foot to each board end.

Finish the Pedestal Base

Step 8

Let the wood glue dry.  (casters are to move it easily)

Apply wood filler to all of the cracks, as desired. Let the wood filler dry fully.

Step 9

Sand the table base (pedestal), until smooth. I went with the white distessed look for my pedestal.

• Stain the pedestal (jacobean), let dry.
• Apply a small amount of vaseline with a finger along the edges and wherever you don’t want the paint to stick.
• Paint the pedestal (Behr ultra pure white latex), let dry.

After the paint is fully dry, use a sander or sandpaper and distress the paint along the edges.

Mark the center of the brackets and add 1″ decorative nails (I get these at Hobby Lobby). Mine were brushed nickel and I painted them oil rubbed bronze.

 Make the Table Top

Step 10

Note: I wanted the top to be flat and not ‘planked’, so I trimmed off the rounded edge of the 2×8’s with a table saw.

Layout the table top boards, make sure the center board is at least 48″ long and mark locations for pocket holes. Make sure to keep a few inches away from the ends so you don’t try and cut screws when making a circle.  Drill pocket holes for 1 1/2″ material.

 

Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to assemble the top together, keeping the boards as flat as possible.

Step 11

After the glue dries, remove any excess glue and roughly sand the top smooth.  There are multiple ways cut the table top round. I used a router and a straight router bit to cut the table top in a circle.  I took a scrap piece of plywood and cut a slot out for my router to sit snugly in. I measured from the inside edge of the router bit and marked 24″ away and drilled a hole for a screw.  Next I found the center of the table top and screwed the plywood into the center mark. I made multiple passes with the router, lowering the bit about 1/4″ with each pass.

Finishing the Table Top

Step 12

Sand the table top smooth, going from 80 grit to 120 grit sand paper.  Finish sanding in the direction of the grain.  For the table top I liked the finish that Cara at Build it Craft it Love it did on her table.  Even though it didn’t turn out the same, it still looks cool.

I first applied a coat of Varathane Antique White and let it set.  Then I streaked on some Minwax Classic Gray with a rag, followed by a coat of Minwax Jacobean. I should mention that my garage temp was about the same as a refrigerator at the time, so I had a long work time with the stain. Let the stain dry fully, then apply a top coat. An polyurethane will give the wood good protection.

Assemble the Table

Step 13

Place the pedestal base upside down on the table top and center the base. In the 24″ 2×6 base pieces, use a 3/8″ drill bit (the pocket hole drill bit) and drill down about 1 1/2″ in a few places.  Use 2 1/2″ self tapping screws (Kreg) to attach the pedestal base to the table top.

 

Enjoy your round pedestal table!  Here’s mine all decked out for Christmas.

Thanks for pinning the round pedestal table.

Download the Free Plans (click link below)

Round Table Pedestal Plans + Pattern

 

Linked to Link Parties, Remodelaholic, Savvy Southern Style