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I have some old bead board frames that I want to update. They are cute but I don’t always like undoing the acorn nuts to put the new picture in and then realizing I didn’t center it after I hang it back up. 🙂 I want to be able to switch out pictures really easy.
Old bead board frames
Free plans for the console table with scroll legs.
I would also like to transition some of the decor into more of a farmhouse style with reclaimed wood look. To make switching out the picture nice and easy, I’m going to use a similar idea to the sliding photo board. The top and bottom boards will have a little slot to allow the photo to slide in and out.
(This is the instructions for an 11″ x 14″, you can find the 8″ x 10″ here).
How to Make a Sliding Picture – Farmhouse Style Frame
For 11″ x 14″ photos
- 2 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 3 1/2″)
- 1 – 1″ x 3″ x 8′ or 6′ board (actual 3/4″ x 2 1/2″)
- 1 1/4″ pin or brad nails
- wood glue
- stain (I used Varathane weathered accelerator, Varathane Kona and Minwax pre-stain conditioner)
- 1″ decorative nail heads (amazon) (painted oil rub bronze) – optional
- picture hanger – optional
- Circular Saw
- Pin Nailer (alt brad nailer)
- Tape Measure
- Table Saw (optional)
- Router (optional)
- Hammer (optional)
- 5 – 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 21 1/2″
- 2 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 17 1/2″ (cut to fit)
Cut all of the boards according to the cut list. Place all of the 1×4 boards together and measure the width of the frame (approximately 17 1/2″) and cut the 1×3 board to that measurement.
Cutting boards to length. Tip using a speed square (carpenter’s square) with a circular saw is a quick way to make cross cuts straight/square. These cuts are also easily made with a miter saw.
This DeWalt cordless circular saw is a new tool for me, and it is great. The motor is brushless, so it is more efficient and it is easy to adjust the depth of cut. Being cordless, I really like it to cut up plywood sheets.
Cut a slot in each 1×3 for the pictures. The slot should be 1/4″ tall (or slightly more) and about 1/16″ – 1/8″ wide. (If you want to have glass with your picture, make sure it’s as wide as the glass/plexi and picture.)
I used a table saw with the blade at 1/4″ high and fence about 11/16″ from the blade.
Sand all of the boards before frame assembly.
Line up the 5 – 1×4’s and mark 1 1/2″ from each end. Make sure the tops of all of the 1×4’s are flush, use wood glue and 1 1/4″ nails to secure the top board and bottom board to the 1×4 slats. Important – The slots on the 1×3 both need to be towards the center of the frame.
Glue top and bottom boards, don’t let the glue get in the slot of the 1×3!
Nail the top and bottom boards to the 1×4 slats, put at least 2 nails into each 1×4 slat.
I used a pin nailer so I wouldn’t have large nail heads showing. This pins work great to hold boards/molding in place, but the frame isn’t really secure until the glue dries. (Alternate method – brad nails will hold the top and bottom in place, but will leave bigger marks.)
Let the glue fully dry.
For a grayish brown weathered wood / reclaimed wood look:
- I first applied a coat of Varathane Weathered Accelerator and let that fully dry.
- I applied a small amount of Kona to a bristle brush, dabbing off the extra and dry brushed it onto the frame lightly.
- The last step is to take a paper towel or rag and rub on some Minwax pre-stain conditioner and let it dry completely.
- Consider putting a clear coat finish (polyurethane) on to protect the wood.
Add a picture frame hanger to the back of the farmhouse style frame, or route one with a keyhole router bit.
If you want to add decorative nail heads, measure along the top and bottom boards 2 3/16″, 6 9/16″, 10 15/16″, and 15 5/16″ and center it at 1 1/4″.
See how small those pin nail holes are, you can barely see them. I didn’t fill the nail holes at all. The Makita does a great job and doesn’t mar the surface.
Front view of the farmhouse style frame.
Thanks for pinning!
Download Free Plans
–> Sliding Picture Frame – 11×14 <– click
Find the 8″ x 10″ farmhouse frame here.
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